FEDERAL UNIFORM
GENERAL NOTES: Uniforms should be appropriately sewn, made of the proper materials, and constructed in the correct “cut”. Proper stitching is encouraged, as are hand-sewn button holes. This applies for uniform jackets, pants, vests, shirts, and drawers.
Civil War uniforms were provided in a limited number of sizes, so STICK TO THESE REGULATION SIZES. Avoid the “cookie-cutter soldier” appearance provided by a tailored uniform. Instead, we want to preserve the “unaltered-just-as-issued” look that was typical of soldiers in the field.
Do not be afraid to cuff your trousers or blouse, or to wear “high-water” trousers. If the issue-size clothing does not fit you perfectly, then it is probably correct. This is important.
1.1 Headgear
A. Forage Cap: Unless portraying a unit that was supplied with dress hats, the only acceptable headgear for formal occasions such as parade, inspection, and guard duty, is the forage cap. Forage caps shall be of a finely-woven, dark blue (not navy blue) plain-weave wool with no visible weave. Visors and chinstraps shall be painted leather. Buttons shall be small “eagle” type. The cap liner shall be brown or black polished cotton and the cap shall have a leather or painted cloth sweatband. Of the two basic forage cap styles, preference should be given to the “Type 1” forage cap, because the “Type 2” style is over-represented in the hobby. The Type 1 style has a crescent-shaped, slightly slanting visor and smaller-diameter crown. Type 2 caps have a rectangular visor that usually lays flat and a larger-diameter crown. The sides of the brim shall not be curled downward in the style of modern baseball caps. Trim and Insignia: Members are discouraged from adding brass ornamentation to their headgear. Brass harps, Masonic badges, and other insignia (for example, “Excelsior” badges) are forbidden on any type of clothing, especially hats. Wearing of brass bugles is strongly discouraged, as there is little evidence that soldiers in the field wore them. Unless specifically documented otherwise, the wearing of proper corps badges, regimental numbers, and company letters is encouraged. If worn, corps badges shall be appropriate for the scenario portrayed. Plain, unadorned headgear is also acceptable. [EOG/US pages 176, 182-183]
B. Other Headgear: Havelocks are not allowed unless documentation supports their use in a given scenario. Although documentation supporting the wear of straw hats by Federal soldiers on campaign does exist, it is the 33rd NCT’s policy that the presence of straw hats (even in small quantities) is detrimental to the overall “look” that the 33rd is attempting to portray. Therefore, straw hats are not allowed.
C. Civilian Hats: Appropriate, period-style civilian slouch hats are permitted on campaign and as otherwise appropriate for the scenario portrayed. Forage caps were (and still are) required for formal occasions, such as parade, inspection, and guard duty. Civilian hats shall be devoid of hat cords. Hats shall be devoid of insignia; as piece of civilian attire that was “tolerated”, they were usually free from the regulations that demanded insignia to be worn on the forage cap. Civilian hats shall have a sewn edge binding, a silk hat ribbon, and a sweatband of leather or cotton duck. Civilian hats shall be made of fine wool felt and shall not include metal-trimmed vents or exhibit a “fuzzy” appearance. “Steamed fedoras”, derbies, and shapeless hat blanks are forbidden. Acceptable hat colors are medium to dark gray, medium to dark brown, and black, with black as the preferred color.
D. U.S. Army Hats: Use of the U.S. Army regulation hat (a.k.a. “Hardee hat”; note that this is a non-period term) is permitted when appropriate for the scenario (i.e., when portraying a unit that actually wore them). U.S. Army hats will normally be devoid of brass ornamentation and hat cords. U.S. Army hats shall be black in color and made of medium-weight felt, with a crown about 5¾ inches high and a brim 3 to 3¼ inches wide. U.S. Army hats shall have two lines of stitching as an edge binding and a 3/8-inch to 5/16-inch wide ribbon hat-band knotted on the left side. The liner shall include a black or maroon leather sweatband and glazed paper crown backing.
E. Soft “smoking caps” are acceptable when soldiers are off-duty if the particular cap and material is correct for the period.
F. Headgear for Commissioned Officers: Headgear for officers is at the discretion of the officer and shall be suitable for the scenario and portrayal. Acceptable headgear includes: U.S. Army dress hat, civilian hat, forage cap, and kepi. Hats may be worn with or without embroidered branch insignia. Dress hats and civilian hats may be worn with or without hat cord. [EOG/US pages 178-179 (kepis), pages 180-181 (forage caps), page 184 (U.S. Army hat), pages 185-186 (civilian hats)]
1.2 Shirts
A. Federal Issue Shirts: It is preferred that all members have at least one gray or domet flannel Federal-issue shirt, as this was the shirt worn by the majority of Federal soldiers. Federal-issue shirts may be either depot-made or contractor-made. Domet flannel shirts will have three ½” diameter tin-plated buttons; one at the neck and one at each cuff; the fabric shall be a cotton warp and wool weft in an off-white color. Please note that these shirts were originally supplied in only one size (no kidding). Resist the temptation to wear an unauthentic ‘custom-size’ issue shirt! The typical gray wool shirt will have 4 or 5 buttons, with two or three on a placket front and one on each cuff.
B. Civilian Shirts: Fabrics must be woven of 100-percent natural fiber. Only period-correct prints (such as checked prints; note that paisley, no matter how historically correct, is strongly discouraged) may be worn. [EOG/US page 126] Fabric may be 100 percent cotton muslin or flannel. Shirts must have wood, bone, mother-of-pearl, glass, porcelain, or paper-backed tin buttons. Bone, glass, and porcelain were more common than wood buttons. Buttons are a conspicuous problem with inaccurate clothing. Antique or properly made reproduction buttons can be purchased from suppliers on the Vendor List.
C. Members are encouraged to avoid using white muslin or linen shirts.
1.3 Uniform Coats and Jackets
A. Fatigue Blouse (“Sack Coat”) for Enlisted Men and Non-commissioned Officers: Required field-wear is the standard, New York or Schuylkill Depot-issue Federal four-button fatigue blouse. All jackets should be of indigo (dark blue) wool flannel material. Wool flannel shall exhibit a visible “wale” in the fabric and shall be a shade between a medium and dark blue color; the color shall not be a blackish, “navy” blue that fades to an even more-unacceptable purple color. Lined or unlined blouses are acceptable. Unlined blouses must have all seams flat-felled. Lining can be lightweight brown flannel, linen, or jean in the body, and cotton muslin or linen shirting in the sleeves. Fatigue blouses shall have standard, medium-sized U.S. infantry buttons. [Similar to EOG/US page 125] Here are some photographs of original sack coats.
B. Fatigue Blouse (“Sack Coat”) for Commissioned Officers: The officer’s sack coat is a loose-fitting blouse that should generally be longer than the enlisted fatigue blouse and are acceptable when appropriate for the scenario. Officers’ sack coats were privately purchased and exhibited variation from one officer to the next. Sack coats shall be of dark blue wool flannel or broadcloth material (refer to “Fatigue Blouses for Enlisted Men and Non-commissioned Officers” above for requirements on fabric color). Linings shall be appropriate to the original used as a pattern. Sack coat may have a four or five-button front; additional buttons are permissible. Sack coats generally had at least two outside pockets. Black velvet collars and cuffs were common and are acceptable on officers’ sack coats. [EOG/US page 119] While there is documented evidence of officers on campaign preferring to wear the unadorned sack coats of private soldiers, the 33rd NCT desire that an officer’s impression include a jacket or coat that is of a pattern specific to commissioned rank. Exceptions would be made on a case-by-case basis if documentation exists for officers within the specific unit being portrayed.
C. Frock Coat for Commissioned Officers: Captains and lieutenants’ frock coats shall be single-breasted; field-grade officers may wear double-breasted coats. Frock coats shall be of dark blue wool broadcloth material; refer to “Fatigue Blouses for Enlisted Men and Non-commissioned Officers” above for fabric color requirements. Frock coats should be lined with a mixture of alpaca, tow, or similar material as chest padding, and polished cotton; sleeves shall be lined with muslin or osnaburg. Officers are discouraged from wearing rank insignia on the sleeve unless correct for the portrayal. Frock coats shall have nine ¾-inch eagle buttons on the front, three 5/8-inch eagle buttons on each cuff, and a four- or six-button tail. Black velvet collars and cuffs were common and are acceptable on officers’ frock coats. [EOG/US pages 116-117] Officers shall not wear enlisted frock coats.
D. Shell Jacket for Commissioned Officers: Many commissioned officers wore shell jackets. If worn by Members, commissioned officer shell jackets shall be of dark blue wool broadcloth material; refer to “Fatigue Blouses for Enlisted Men and Non-commissioned Officers” above for fabric color requirements. Shell jacket lining shall be appropriate to the original used as a pattern. [EOG/US page 115]
1.4 Pants
A. U.S. Army Infantry issue: Light blue kersey wool with a visible “wale” to the fabric. Pants shall not be pleated and shall have a watch pocket. For the veteran-soldier “as issued” look, wear one of the four issue sizes, unaltered. The cut is very important: many reproduction trousers ride like modern pants, with the waistband on top of the hip-bones. The proper Civil War cut is much higher: the waistband should be just under the lower ribs. Federal trousers also were characterized by a straight outseam (actually an outdated cut by the fashion standards of 1860), which gives the trouser legs a period-correct “loose” appearance. Buttons shall be paper-backed tin. Pants should have a yoke or insert at the back to raise the waistband approximately 2 to 3 inches above the front of the pants. Fly shall be of kersey (not of white cotton). Preferred pants are Schuylkill Arsenal or J.T. Martin (period contractor from New York City) manufacture. [EOG/US page 127]
Past Patterns makes a very good pattern if you want to make your own. Pattern #710 will fit Federal sizes 1-4 and pattern #713 will fit sizes 5-8.
Charlie Child's also makes a great foot trouser pattern.
1.5 Suspenders/Braces
A. Civilian: Any type of period civilian model: all-cloth “poor boys”, or adjustable with tin, brass, or japanned steel buckles. No buckles of nickel-plated metal.
B. Canvas, drill, tapestry, embroidered, crocheted, woven, or ticking suspenders are acceptable.
C. Leather ends on suspenders must be 100 percent natural leather; synthetic substitutes are not allowed.
D. Period-correct suspenders incorporating elastic components are allowed if they are purchased from an approved sutler on the Vendor List.
E. Members are advised that most large, general sutlers’ suspenders are incorrect.
F. Most issue trousers were furnished with only four suspender buttons; two in the front and two in the back. If you want to preserve the “unaltered-just-as-issued” look that was typical of soldiers in the field, use braces with only four suspension points.
1.6 Drawers
A. Summer-issue drawers should be canton flannel material (plain cotton is also acceptable, although canton flannel was most common). Issue drawers can be of the Schuylkill Arsenal or New York Depot pattern. Issue drawers should have two or three-piece tin-plated buttons. Ties would be visible at the cuffs, unless they have been removed. Soldiers also cut the legs off their issue drawers in warm weather. Drawer cuffs make great gun rags!
B. Civilian drawers may have bone, wood, mother-of-pearl, or paper backed tin buttons. [EOG/US page 127]
1.7 Stockings
A. Civilian socks: Particularly hand-knitted cotton or wool. No athletic socks. Elastic is not allowed.
B. It is noted that the vast majority of large, general sutlers do not sell proper socks. Solid colors of socks can be worn, but should be correct for the period.
C. Issue socks were very commonly machine knit and, to a lesser extent (which decreased as the war progressed) hand-knit in one of the following solid colors: off-white, gray, grayish blue, brown, or blue.
1.8 Shoes
A. U.S. Military-Issue Bootee: Leather bootee per period specifications. Do not use modern, golden-colored, oil-tanned “rawhide” boot laces; black leather laces are the best bet. Bootees should have a slightly squared toe and have either pegged or stitched soles. Preference should be given to stitched-sole bootees, as it appears that the majority of shoes issued through the Schuylkill depot were of stitched-sole construction. The smooth side of the leather shall be towards the inside of the shoe. The rough side should be sheered and polished, giving the bootee a smooth appearance. Avoid shoes with a heavy, suede-like nap. While metal heel plates were not an issue item, they are recommended in order to prolong the life of reproduction shoes. Toe plates and hobnails are acceptable as long as they are of a period pattern. Note that evidence suggests that “brogans” was not a period term. [EOG/US page 191]
B. Gaiters: Canvas leggings are expressly not allowed unless documented as correct for the scenario. Leggings are correct for certain events and therefore their use is condoned for specific scenarios; Members will be advised in advance of events where leggings are appropriate. When worn, the only acceptable patterns are the two documented common “general-issue” versions: either white canvas with eyelets and leather reinforcements and laces, or all-leather construction with straps and buckles. Both versions of leggings should have a leather or canvas heel-strap. There is insufficient evidence to support the use of leggings with button closures.
C. Be advised that tucking the trousers (called ‘blousing’) into the socks was (and is) not allowed in formal formations, such as parade, guard duty, inspections, etc.
D. Boots: Although this item is under-represented in the ranks, members should use extreme caution if choosing boots for their impression. Many of the original soldiers discovered that a poorly-made pair of boots proved to an agonizing alternative for marching footwear. Reenactors are even more likely to find this out today, for if anything, quality boots are even more difficult to find today. In fact, the Federal Army became less tolerant of straggling due to non-regulation footwear as the war progressed, and orders were periodically issued to give up boots and draw shoes instead. Boots, if worn, should be of two-piece top construction (the “full Wellington”) with sewn or pegged leather soles and a fairly flat heel.
1.9 Waistcoat/Vest
A. Vests were not an army-issue item. Military-cut vests of dark blue or light blue kersey wool with brass buttons and cotton or linen back are acceptable, as are any period-correct style of civilian vest.
B. Vests are not required.
1.10 Overcoat
A. U.S. “Foot” pattern: Light blue kersey wool, with white cotton or osnaburg lining in the sleeves and flannel or wool lining in the body (removal of the lining is acceptable), brass buttons (5-button front, 9-button cape), and preferably with hand-sewn button holes. Overcoats shall have standard U.S. infantry buttons. [EOG/US page 129]
B. Overcoats shall be utilized only when appropriate for the scenario; especially in the second half of the war, overcoats were generally placed in storage from late April through mid-September and, as such, are generally not correct for scenarios during these months.
C. Cavalry greatcoats are not acceptable.
D. NCO chevrons shall NOT be displayed on overcoats. While there are original overcoats with chevrons, this practice is extremely detrimental to the plain, “nondescript” look that the 33rd NCT is trying to achieve.
1.11 Miscellaneous Items
A Eyewear: If corrective lenses are required, contact lenses are preferred. If glasses are worn, they shall be period-correct. In no event shall eyeglass lenses be larger than one inch in diameter. Temple-pieces (“bows”) should not loop around the ears (this was a post-war style). Nose-rest pads on eyewear are not allowed. Sunglasses are not allowed. No modern eyewear will is allowed at any time.
B Chevrons: NCOs are encouraged to wear chevrons commensurate with their rank. No member of the company shall wear a rank insignia above his official rank unless brevetted by the company commander. Company NCO chevrons shall be worsted wool; other chevrons as authorized by the battalion shall conform with the U.S. Army Regulations relative to material and configuration. NCOs on campaign were known to wear private’s blouses until ordered to add their badge of rank: these improvised chevrons were often crude affairs of “tape” or light-blue wool from pants. “Factory made” chevrons are preferred but, if approved by the company commander beforehand, such improvised chevrons are acceptable for campaign scenarios.
C. Insignia for Commissioned Officers: Insignia of rank should be worn by commissioned officers unless documentation suggests otherwise for a given scenario and portrayal. Generally, insignia should be shoulder straps. Straps can be embroidered or the Smith Patent laminated metal styles. Backing shall be fine wool or velvet, medium or dark-blue in color. At the discretion of the officer, either double-border or single-border straps may be used. Miniature insignia may be worn on officer sack coats. [EOG/US page 175]
D. Sashes: When required for the scenario and portrayal, orderly sergeants, principal musicians, and commissioned officers will wear sashes. Sashes for non-commissioned officers shall be red knitted wool, knotted at both ends, and approximately nine feet in length. Sashes for commissioned officers may be silk netting or knitted wool, shall be scarlet (maroon) in color, knotted at each end, and approximately nine feet in length. [EOG/US page 115 (commissioned officer’s sash)] Other ranks shall not wear sashes.